Spring 2014 Mens Wear EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani's digital world was a clean, bright place. None of the mess of The Matrix. Instead, a seamless symphony of neutral colors, sci-fi textures, and a selection of sportswear staples whose streamlines would have been more impactful with the kind of judicious edit that Giorgio himself isn't remotely interested in.

This collection usually has an innate body-conscious athleticism. It was obvious today in blazers that zipped—rather than buttoned—close to the body, in the lightness of construction, in the sporty mesh-like
perforations that duplicated digital codes, and in the bonding and laser cutting that are Milan's shortcuts to modernity this season. The key motif was a honeycomb pattern, suggestive of the digital hive of the Internet. It came printed, woven, or embossed, solid or sheer. In a similar vein was the three-dimensional mosaic tile effect that emphasized Armani's skill with subtle surface interest. It was at its best in fabric that looked like lacquered raffia, in a navy caban or a silver biker. Futuristic luxury.

It wouldn't be Emporio without a weird moment, provided here by visors (more transparent Harlequin masks, actually) that left tiny clouds of condensation by the models' mouths. But the finale of monochrome eveningwear was a reminder that it's Giorgio's crowd-pleasing classics that keep the Armani engine churning.

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